Dog-on Summer Heat!

May 16, 2008

As summer approaches our pets are at their most vulnerable. It is our responsibility, as pet owners, to ensure that our dogs remain protected during the summertime heat. How? You might ask. There are many preventative measures to fight against heat related injuries, but only a few that will be covered. Cooling down is limited to panting and sweating through pads on a dog’s foot, so it is important to keep your dog hydrated and shaded from excessive heat. It is always wise to avoid leaving dogs in vehicles unattended for lengthy periods of time. Taking part in water related activities to beat the summer heat is also a great way of ensuring your dog stays safe and doesn’t fall victim to dehydration.

Heat Stroke Indicators

There are a few signals to look for when your dog is suffering from a heat stroke:

• Excessive Panting/ Drooling
• Increased Heart Rate
• Thick, Sticky Saliva
• Bright Red Tongue
• Red or Pale Gums
• Weakness
• Dizziness
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Shock
• Coma

4 Easy Tips

By providing your pet with ample hydration you lessen the chances of heat stroke and other health complications. Simple tips can prove vital to your dog’s longevity:

• Keeping water bowl at an adequate level, refilling periodically
• Installing a no-drip thirst quenching attachment, onto your outside faucet
• Lessening the amount fed during the day, overeating can lead to overheating
• Keeping Brachycephalic (Pugs, Bulldogs Pekingese breeds) out of extremely hot weather, due to difficulty in breathing

What about Coverage?

Because animals with white coats or pink skin are more apt to get sunburn using pet-safe sunscreen is always a plus, when outside for long increments of time. You should also keep in mind that your dogs nose and foot pads are sensitive areas, so stay away from hot surfaces that could possibly burn those areas. Thicker coats tend to hold in body heat, so grooming is always beneficial, though cutting all of your dog’s hair off isn’t necessary. Their coat does help to insulate against the heat, so your goal should be to remove the previously shed coat. Dark fur tends to absorb more of the sun’s rays, so some pets get hot quicker than those with lighter-colored fur. Providing adequate coverage and location for confined animals are important factors to consider. Ventilated doghouses, carriers and crates as well as open, shaded, fenced-in yards become great spots for your animal to lounge around and relax in comfort. Remember natural shade is more preferable to artificially shaded areas, and as the sun shifts so does the shade.

Don’t Leave

There is nothing better than driving down the road watching as your dog stares out the window in amazement, barking at cars and whimpering. However, leaving them inside the car as you complete a task is something that, as a responsible pet owner, one should not do. A few words for thought. The sun’s heat gets absorbed then trapped inside parked vehicles. The temperature inside a car can get over 120 degrees Fahrenheit in minutes, creating a greenhouse effect, potentially raising your dog’s body temperature and leading to possible complications. Even on mildly warm days the temperature in you car becomes unbearable, and heat build-up isn’t something prevented by simply cracking your window. As common practice, keep an extra leash in your vehicle for those days when Rover decides to tag along for the ride. By leaving your pet inside your home or in a ventilated area, when away, one can help to alleviate the complications when in pet restricted areas.

Fun in the Sun

Stay away from activities that are strenuous to your dog and can lead to fatigue or dehydration. Instead stick with activities that could be enjoyed by both the owner as well as the pet. Simply giving your dog a bath, indoors or out, is a great way of spending quality time with your best friend. If you and your pet decide to go for a swim make sure that your pet has access in and out of the pool and is able to exit unassisted. If you decide to take your dog out to the lake nothing is safer than a doggy life vest. If all else fails simply turning on the water hose and soaking your pet is a great and effective way of cooling down.

Pets need the same love and care that they often give. In the case of possible heat stress, exhaustion or stroke, it is always best to seek the advice of a trained official. There are many tips that are useful and many that weren’t covered though touched upon. The information given, in no way, is intended to challenge or substitute the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian. Play safe this summer and enjoy quality time with your pets.

De-clawing Your Cat – Necessary Evil or Just Evil

First, let me clarify that de-clawing is a bit of a misnomer; while it sounds as simple as a pedicure, it is considerably more than just clipping and filing nails. De-clawing is a surgical procedure, wherein the entire first joint of each of a cat’s “toes” is amputated. Imagine having all of your fingers amputated to the first knuckle.

More importantly, cats are digitigrade. This means that they walk on their “toes”. Try to imagine walking on your fingertips after the amputations I described earlier.

Cats use their claws for several things vital to their physiology. They provide protection, balance and mobility. They are used for exercise – hooking into an object (such as a tree) and pulling against its resistance is your cat’s version of a BowFlex®. Unfortunately, that object is just as likely to be your sofa for an indoor cat. Scent glands in the feet are used to “mark” a territory (indoor/outdoor cats often do this with trees). Certainly, we cannot forget grooming. What cat owner could imagine a period of more than an hour without licking and scratching (unless Fluffy is napping)? Scratching is a very important part of the grooming process, used to rid itself of skin irritations, dead hair, and tangles. Even with a human’s help brushing and combing, the natural urge, and the sudden itch or irritation cannot be quelled. Have you ever had an itch you could not scratch?

Whether we like it or not, climbing is second nature to cats. It is next to impossible to stop. De-clawing may stop a cat from climbing but it will not repress the urge to do so.

A cat’s main line of defense is his claws. Likewise, his ability to hunt lies in his claws. Swiping at a mouse or bird with no claws is pretty useless. Surely, most people who have a cat de-clawed intend for them to never be outdoors, but let’s face it, that is a pipe dream in many cases. What if a de-clawed, supposedly indoor-only cat were to slip out in the real world and get lost. With no defense mechanism and the inability to hunt for food, it might just as well be a toddler.

Consequences:
The long-term and short-term effects of de-clawing are many. Short-term include excruciating pain that can last for days or weeks, as well as balance and mobility problems. Long-term can include “phantom limb” pain similar to that experienced by human amputees, biting and aggression or the opposite – depression and withdrawal, arthritis or crippling due to walking on the “wrists” instead of the “toes” and avoiding the litter box. Because it is painful or uncomfortable to walk on certain surfaces (such as cat litter), many cats will “miss” or stop using the box and often relieve themselves just outside of the proper area. Owners usually do not even realize this is connected to the surgery.

What Do The Experts Say?
Dr Jennifer Conrad, DVM, says:

There are many scientific studies that show the rates of immediate and long-term complications from declawing may be as high as 50% and 20% respectively. This means that one out of two and one out of five will have post-surgical complications. These complications include permanent lameness and death. One must only ask a concerned shelter worker to know that the chances of behavior changes are too large for declawing to be acceptable… Some cats will have immediate changes; some will have problems as they get older…

She lists several subtle problems she has seen in de-clawed domestic cats:

1. Have truncated paws.
2. The digital pads (the four little gummy-drop pads on the bottom of the cat’s paws) are not oval, supple and plump but instead, rounded, atrophied and dry.
3. They miss the litter box regularly.
4. Often extreme in shyness or aggression.

Dr. Conrad is a graduate of the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine and is a member of the American Veterinary Medicine Association (AVMA) and the American Association of Zoo Veterinarians (AAZV).

“The ASPCA does not approve of the declawing of cats as a matter of supposed convenience to cat owners. It is a form of mutilation and it does cause pain.”

“It is the policy of The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) to oppose… declawing of cats when done solely for the convenience of the owners and without benefit to the animal.”

The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (www.avar.org):
Declawing is “unacceptable because the suffering and disfigurement it causes is not offset by any benefits to the cat. Declawing is done strictly to provide convenience to people.”

Dr. Nicholas Dodman, author of “The Cat Who Cried for Help”, says this about the subject:

The inhumanity of the procedure is clearly demonstrated by the nature of cats’ recovery from anesthesia following the surgery. Unlike routine recoveries, including recovery from neutering surgeries, which are fairly peaceful, declawing surgery results in cats bouncing off the walls of the recovery cage because of excruciating pain. –Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee. Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint, and dismember all apply to this surgery. Partial digital amputation is so horrible that it has been employed for torture of prisoners of war, and in veterinary medicine, the clinical procedure serves as a model of severe pain for testing the efficacy of analgesic drugs.

Alternatives:
There is no medical reason to de-claw a cat and the reasons normally given can be solved by several alternatives. Among the alternatives designed to solve or eradicate a “behavior problem“, which generally is just a cat being a cat, are:

• Scratching Posts – A favorite alternative, they come in many different sizes and shapes and often are or can be treated with catnip. A sisal doormat can be just as good.
• Choosing your furniture carefully is an alternative if you are buying new furniture. Close-knit woven fabrics are harder to penetrate and resist cat damage slightly better.
• Nail-Trimming – When done properly, this can be a safe, simple and inexpensive alternative. Only clipping the sharp curved part of the nail solves the destructive issue without causing major or long-term, irreversible damage. ONLY USE NAIL TRIMMERS DESIGNED FOR CATS. If you are squeamish or reluctant to clip nails, try a nail grinder. Try doing this when your cat is sleepy and calm or try a grooming bag such as the Klaw Kontrol bag.
• An important fact when you get a young cat or kitten is to remember proper training can avoid many if not most problems. NEVER use your hands to play with the cat as this teaches him it is ok for him to do the same. If he scratches you in play, give a loud “OUCH” and leave the room. Cats hate to be ignored.
• During the training phase, that is until your cat understands what is OK and not, you could cover the areas of furniture with foil wrap, another closely woven fabric, blown-up balloons, Sticky Paws® or double-sided tape. If he continues to scratch, give a firm “NO” and a quick squirt from a mister, spray bottle or water gun (USE PLAIN WATER ONLY). Be sure to remind him of his scratching post and praise or reward him when he does well.
• Soft Paws® Nail Caps – Developed by a veterinarian, these vinyl caps glue onto the cat’s claws and come in clear or colors, which can look like fancy grooming. They are said to last, on average, 4-6 weeks.
• Feliway® - Mimics the natural facial pheromones found in cats. These pheromones work naturally to reduce stress-related behaviors such as urine marking, scratching, loss of appetite and reduced desire to play or interact. Comes in spray or plug-in module.

Scratching is a very large, natural part of being a cat. A procedure so painful and fraught with peril should never be decided on lightly, without weighing all the alternatives.

Opinions vary on this and many subjects. The opinion expressed here is that of one person under Jeffers’ employ and does not necessarily reflect that of the organization or its owners. Please feel free to comment your views here both for and against. No personal attacks, profanity or flaming will be tolerated.

Next time – Dog-Gone Heat!

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved.
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.

Parasites and Pets

A parasite commonly refers to an organism that lives on or inside another organism.¹ More importantly, a parasitic relationship is one in which one member of the association benefits while the other is harmed.² Making the short list of parasites common to pets are fleas, ticks, mites and worms. This particular post will focus on worms, specifically intestinal worms. (We’ll save heartworms for another day.)

There are four basic, common types of intestinal worms found in dogs and cats. They are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms. It is IMPORTANT to note that all worms are contagious and can spread, not only to other pets but to humans as well. As with many afflictions and ailments, prevention is usually easier and less expensive than treatment.

Roundworms (ascarids) – large, cream colored worms that usually grow 10-15 cm long and look similar to spaghetti. May show no outward signs of infection. Very common in puppies. Can be ingested (with rodent, bird, etc. or through mother’s milk) Can be born infected.

Hookworms – Normally about ½” to ¾” long and found in small intestines. Lives on blood and tissue. Female can shed 25,000 eggs a day. Hookworms can be ingested or can penetrate the skin.

Whipworms – More common to dogs than cats. Attach to large intestine and feed on blood. Transmitted solely by the ingestion of eggs which are especially hardy, surviving in soil for years, even in frigid climates.

Tapeworms – There are two different species of tapeworm. Most likely to be visible, usually as small, flattened rice-looking segments in stool or around pet’s rear. Requires an immediate host so must be ingested within a host (birds, rodents, etc.). Most dangerous of the four to humans.

Signs and Symptoms
Internal parasites can cause a multitude of problems but sometimes the cause may not be recognized immediately prolonging the infection and worsening the damage, even resulting in death.

Some common results are:

• Pot-belly
• Pale (whitish) gums
• Diarrhea
• Nausea/vomiting
• Weight loss
• Lethargic (lack of energy)
• Bloody stool
• Worms visible in feces
• Obstructed bowels
• Severe anemia
• Respiratory distress
• Liver damage
• Lung damage
• Death

How did my dog get worms?
Nearly all puppies are born with some internal parasites and those that aren’t usually get them from nursing (as do some kittens). There are many OTC dewormers for both kittens and puppies. It is equally important to treat your pet, your home and your yard for fleas. One very common way for one type of tapeworm to be transmitted is by ingesting fleas which act as hosts. Your dog may get bit by a flea and if scratching fails he may chew or gnaw at the spot to alleviate the problem. In so doing, he may also consume the flea and consequently the tapeworm embryo.

Other ways that your pet can become infected are:

• Nursing off the mother (bitch or queen)
• Coprophagia (eating feces – actually it is the egg or larvae within the feces)
• Through the skin or a wound
• Ingesting another host such as rodents or birds.

Treatment:
Many parasites cannot be detected by the naked eye. If you suspect that your pet may have worms, you should consult your veterinarian. Your vet can do a blood test or fecal exam to check for most parasites. Most can be treated easily enough but require regular treatments as a means of prevention.
Do-It-Yourselfers take note - Puppies should be wormed with Pyrantel Pamoate beginning at 2 weeks, then 3, 4, 6, 8, and 10 weeks. After 4 weeks of age, you may add a praziquantel product for tapeworm or after 6 weeks, you may switch to a product with fenbendazole (Safe-guard/Panacur) to treat one of the types of tapeworm as well as hook, round and whip. After 12 weeks, you may switch to a more comprehensive dewormer such as WormX Plus by Virbac, the only OTC wormer that kills all of the worms including both types of tapeworm. Unless you have reason to suspect an occurrence, you may use this product every 4 to 6 months for prevention (along with the other tips mentioned above). Please be aware, if you do not see the vet, if you insist on treating your pet yourself, it may take 2 or 3 treatments to completely rid the system of all the worms and eggs. Some treatments can be repeated in 10 days.

Because cats seem to have a more sensitive system, there are fewer OTC treatments approved for use in cats or kittens. Piperazine products in liquid or paste form can be used for roundworms and praziquantel for tapeworms.

One other option for cats, dogs, kittens, puppies, birds, ferrets, hamsters, rabbits and most other pets is a natural, homeopathic treatment called HomeoPet® Wrm Clear. It treats roundworms, hookworms and tapeworms and is 100% natural. It is vet approved and has no known side-effects after more than 12 years of research.

An Ounce of Prevention
Of course, prevention is usually easier and cheaper than treatment but it is especially important with parasites.

• A recent national survey showed that 19% of dogs were infected with hookworms.³ This is one of the less common worms.
• A single female roundworm can produce up to 100,000 eggs per day.⁴
• Some Parasite eggs can survive in soil for years.
• Children, the elderly and immune-compromised are at the greatest risk.
• As few as 50 hookworms can be fatal to a puppy.⁵

In 2 weeks time, 2 puppies infected with roundworms can completely contaminate a 2800 sq. ft. yard.⁶

• A study from Connecticut published in 2005 found that more than 25% of soil samples from playgrounds are contaminated with Toxocara* eggs.⁷

* Toxocara is another name for roundworms and infection in humans can cause brain damage, meningitis, encephalitis, epilepsy, loss of visual acuity, or unilateral blindness.

REMEMBER to clean your home thoroughly when you treat your pet. There may be thousands, hundreds of thousands of eggs lying about. Clear your cat’s litter box DAILY if not more often. Once a week, you should clean and scrub the pan with diluted bleach. (Never use anything with phenol!) Another alternative is disposable litter boxes. Make sure your pet has clean, fresh water always. Stainless steel bowls are better than plastic because they will not hold the smell of the disinfectant. ALWAYS take a new pet to the vet before introducing him/her to your home and other pets or kids. Be sure and clean up after your outside pets as well. The infection can stay in the soil for years.

Protect yourself and your family:

1. Wash your hands well after contact with an animal
2. Do not allow children to put dirt in their mouths
3. Pick up dog and cat waste from your yard daily
4. Cover sandboxes
5. Have pet tested at least once a year.
6. Eat only well-cooked meals
7. Wash fresh fruits and vegetables
8. Change/clean litter box regularly
9. Use flea control treatments year-round

Next time – Declawing your cat – Necessary or Cruel

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved.
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.
To comment or reply, just click where it says “No Comments” below. (If comments have been made it will read with the number of comments instead of “No Comments”, ex. “3 Comments”.)

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CITATIONS

¹ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parasite
² http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Symbiosis
³ Blagburn, B. “Prevalence of Canine and Feline Parasites in the United States,” Supp Compendium on Continuing Education, Vol.23, No. 6(A), 2001.
⁴ Kazacos, KR: Protecting children from helminthic zoonosis. Contemp Pediatr 2000; 17(3) (Suppl): pp. 1-24.
⁵ Bowman, Dwight D: Georgis’ Parasitology for Veterinarians. Saunders, St. Louis, MO, pp. 186, 207-209, 2003.
⁶ Birmingham, Jo: Zoonotic Concerns Put Veterinarians on the Front Lines, Leaders Urge Heightened Vigilance. Vet Forum, 2006 July: 28.
⁷ Hotez, Peter; www.petsandparasites.org; Reducing the Risks; 2007

The Senior Citizen Pet
Old Age in Dogs – Part II

We’ve already discussed the fact that large dogs age earlier and faster than smaller breeds but, as with us mere humans, there are many lifestyle factors that can affect the aging process as well. As we get older, many of us become less active and more sedentary while continuing the eating habits and diet choices that we’ve become accustomed to over our lifetime. This leads, not only to tighter jeans or larger shirts (for us) but also contributes to several health risks or problems. The same can certainly be said for our pets with one exception… They rely on us to feed them and exercise them properly. We determine what, when and how much they eat (if we’re lucky). We determine when and if they get plenty of exercise. We determine if they get regular checkups.

Regular checkups are always important, at any stage, from playful puppy to lazy old lapdog (or huge hound). However, once your pet seems to be slowing down, sleeping more, interacting less and particularly, if certain tasks have become more difficult like, say, climbing stairs or jumping up on the couch or bed next to you, more frequent trips to the vet should be scheduled. At least twice a year, and don’t be afraid to ask your vet about anything that seems unusual. Remember he (or she) sees your pet once or twice a year for a few minutes.

Below is a list of symptoms and the associated disease(s) most common to older dogs.

These are just a few of the possibilities. No one knows your dog better than you. If you notice a change in behavior, consult your vet.

What Can You Do?
Your pet needs proper nutrition always, but if he/she has reached that stage in life where nothing is worth running for and very little is even worth more than a glance over the shoulder during naptimes (which are growing in number and length), then you have to make certain that his/her diet reflects that.

There are more than a few “reduced calorie” dog and cat foods but most often these have restricted fat levels to attain the “reduced calorie” title. This actually causes an increase in carbohydrate percentages which stimulates insulin secretion which tells the body to “store” unused calories as fat. In other words the exact opposite effect of what you are looking for.

One idea (for dogs) is keep feeding the same favorite food that “Fluffy” is used to but substitute a portion of (canned) green beans for an equal portion of feed. Dogs generally love it and it has nutritional value with almost no calories or fat.

I would be remiss if I did not pause here to mention the growing concern about products from China. I am not picking on China by any means but let’s face it, they have had a streak of bad “incidents” of late that makes everything suspect. Many people have chosen to adopt a totally natural diet for their pets; others will only feed things they cook themselves. There is no foolproof system for it. We (the United States), have had our own share of troubles in the recent past. – Spinach anyone? Can you say e-coli? How about botulism? The point is, whatever you decide there are always risks. Always be aware. Your diligence is their best protection.

The “E” word
Just as with our own “growing” problem, a big part of weight gain can be attributed to lack of proper exercise. WAIT! Don’t tune out. I know this is tantamount to treason, luring you in here with “Fido’s” health and then using the “E” word, but, hear me out. Regular exercise can help prevent “Spud” from looking like a couch potato and prevent joint problems including arthritis. If your pet already seems to be suffering from arthritis or joint pain, please consult your vet before beginning any regimen.

Don’t forget dental care
You brush your teeth and maybe even your kid’s teeth at one time but who will clean “Ranger’s”? Be sure to have your vet keep up with dental care. Periodic cleanings can avoid many health issues. Many veterinarians believe that oral disease is the number one health problem diagnosed in dogs. By age 3, it is estimated that 80% of dogs are already showing signs or symptoms of oral disease. What is more shocking and significant is that, left untreated, this can lead to loose teeth, painful abscesses, bone loss or infection. And that infection could cause damage to heart valves, liver and kidneys.

If you choose to brush your dog’s teeth at home, be sure to use a specialized toothpaste for dogs at least three times a week. Human toothpastes have a foaming action that is unpleasant to dogs and they cannot spit or rinse. There are many toys and treats made to help clean teeth also.

Older dogs need love and attention too…
Be aware that, as inconvenient or troubling as these changes and the associated needs are to you, they are equally, if not more, disturbing to your four-legged pal. Aside from the many physiological changes there may be some psychological changes as well. Much patience may be required.

Remember, if “Buster” or “Lucy” suddenly seems to forget all his or her training and house-breaking, it is not out of spite or laziness; it may well be a case of age-related incontinence. There are diapers and pads and medications as well as natural remedies for these type issues, which validate this real problem. Be patient and understanding. Can you imagine being scolded or punished for something you couldn’t control or even understand?

What was it I was barking at?
There are a number of things that our pets have in common with us, not the least of which is the slow, steady, if not subtle, decline of our bodies and our minds as we age. Nutri-Vet® offers a chewable tablet called Clear Thoughts™ that is specially formulated to maintain mental acuity in older dogs. I wonder if it will help me find my car keys.

There are so many good products out there to ease the pains and burdens of aging for your pet. Pain relievers, joint supplements, softer treats, digestive aids, steps and ramps, vitamins and supplements, as well as heated or orthopedic beds are just some of the types of items designed with the senior dog (or cat) in mind.

Next time – The Early Bird Dog Gets Worms

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved.
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.
To comment or reply, just click where it says “No Comments” below. (If comments have been made it will read with the number of comments instead of “No Comments”, ex. “3 Comments”.)

The Senior Citizen Pet
Old Age in Dogs – Part I

Just like people, dogs are living longer today than in years past. The average lifespan of a dog has climbed from 7 years in the ‘30’s to more than 12 years today. With good care and a little luck, it isn’t unheard of for a dog to live 14-15 years.

How Old Is My Dog

We’ve all heard the old saying that one year is like seven for a dog… but that is really just an oversimplified generalization. There are many factors to consider including the actual age and weight of the dog. A larger dog will age more quickly than a small dog, generally.

Here is a chart to give you an idea:

Veterinarians typically consider a small dog to be a “senior” at around 10-12 years and larger dogs around 6-8 years. This is roughly the equivalent of a human around 50-65 years.

Also, as with humans, with age comes infirmity. You may notice Spot has slowed down a bit. Perhaps Fluffy doesn’t chase or race the kids around anymore. Or, if and when, Scooter will head upstairs, it is a leisurely stroll, no longer two or three stairs at a time. It happens.

So What can I Do

There are many things you can and should do as your dog gets older. Regular checkups at a trusted vet are a must but you need to be aware of certain signs and symptoms. After all, who spends the most time with your pet? Who knows when and how Snowball does normal (or not so normal) things? You do. Let’s start with a healthy, happy dog so we have a basis for comparison. Some changes are subtle and happen over time and therefore are less noticeable to us.

Signs of a Healthy Dog

• Coat – should be shiny and soft and thick (for most). Wire coats should be springy and lively. There should not be thinning patches. Double coated breeds should have an undercoat.
• Skin – should be smooth and have no redness, sores, lumps, scabs or scales. Color of skin varies with breed but usually is pink, black, brown or spotted. Keep free of fleas and ticks and other parasites.
• Ears – should be clean with no dark or bloody discharge or foreign matter in canal. There should never be a foul odor, redness or swelling.
• Eyes – should be bright and shiny. The conjunctiva (area around the eyeball) should be pink. Paleness is usually a sign of a problem. There should be no thick yellow or green discharge. Certain breeds have a watery discharge that is normal.
• Mouth – Gums should be pink or black. Paleness of gums is often a sign of anemia or worms. Red or inflamed gums may be gingivitis or periodontal disease. There shouldn’t be any bleeding or foul-smelling breath.
• Teeth – should be sparkling white on young dogs but older dogs’ teeth will tend to darken. Should be no yellow, green or brown matter and teeth should “fit” in gum.
• Nose – should normally be cold and wet. Should be a clear, watery secretion not green or yellow or foul-smelling.
• Temperature – runs around 101º normally. Active or excited dogs may run slightly higher but drastic changes (over 103 or less than 100) should be checked.
• Urine – should be clear and yellow, never dark brown or reddish. Should be proportionate to amount of water intake.
• Feces – should be firm and brown… color can be affected by different dog foods. Check for worms, blood or black color. Diarrhea or constipation should be checked.
• Weight – watch for weight gain or loss. As dogs get older they become less active and can easily gain weight from the same diet they have been on for years. (see earlier post about overweight pets) If an older dog is eating regularly and losing weight, this is possibly a sign of some ailment or affliction.

These are just a few helpful hints. Nothing takes the place of regular checkups. Find a vet that you and your pet trusts and make an appointment at least once a year, twice a year is better for an older dog.

There are so many great products available for the older pet; softer chews, ramps and stairs, vitamins and supplements, joint supplements, orthopedic or heated beds are just a few of the products Jeffers carries for older pets.

Next time – Part II (Signs and Symptoms and Preventative Care)

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved.
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.
To comment or reply, just click where it says “No Comments” below. (If comments have been made it will read with the number of comments instead of “No Comments”, ex. “3 Comments”.)

While you are decorating your home with trees, ornaments and lights and stocking up on special holiday treats, keep in mind that these activities could bring about holiday hazards for your pets.

If you have a live tree, keep the water stand covered. Pine sap mixed with water makes a poisonous drink for your pets. The smell of a live or artificial tree may cause your pet to urine mark it. It may also help to bring the tree into an isolated indoor room for a day or so, so that it smells more like “home”. Secure trees to a wall or ceiling hook with sturdy fishing line. This will help prevent the tree from toppling over should your pet jump on it or accidentally knock it over.

Pick up any ornament hooks, tinsel or ribbon that fall on the floor. Your pet could experience serious internal injuries if it ingests any of these items. If you have indoor holiday lights, be sure they don’t hang so low that your pet could become entangled in them. Remember to unplug the lights when you’re not home to supervise your pet.

Keep holiday treats and candies out of your pet’s reach. Remember wrapped gifts under your tree that may be food items. Certain foods, especially in excess, can make your pet sick. Chocolate, onions, raisins and alcohol can be fatal to dogs.

Greens such as balsam and pine, while not strictly toxic, also can cause minor irritation for munching pets. Poinsettias, mistletoe berries and some other plants and popular holiday flowers can cause serious stomach upset for pets.

Provide a quite refuge for your pet. With all the holiday festivities, your pet will need a “time out” from visiting family and friends. A comfortable crate is one solution, or a room with a “Do Not Disturb” sign is another. Give your pet time and space to settle down or take a nap.

Please keep in mind that one of the busiest and most crowded times of the year in animal shelters is after the holidays as unwanted pets fill the shelters. Before giving a pet, make absolutely sure the recipient wants a pet, and what kind of pet they prefer. Better yet, give a certificate that says you will help them find the pet of their dreams. Not only will you be certain they are getting a pet they want and are ready for, but you will also be giving the gift of your time and company.

Happy Holidays!!!

Renee Jones, CPDT
Pet Marketing/Canine Specialist
1-800-533-3377 ext. 381
rsjones@jefferspet.com

It is time for the 2nd annual 12 Days of Christmas Sale at Jeffers.

For those of you who do not know what that means, it means GREAT DEALS on lots of pet and large animal needs.

Starting November 22 at 10 am Central, One item will be showcased on each of our main sites
JeffersPet.com
JeffersEquine.com
JeffersLivestock.com
at incredible savings… usually half off or more.

These are not items that you find in a thrift store nor are they marked up and then marked down for this sale. You can check our everyday prices anytime online or in our three catalogs.

Each day at least one item will be on sale until the limited supply runs out. There is a limit of 1 item per customer per day but each site usually has a different item (although sometimes there are overlaps).

Additionally there will be eight (8) Super Hot Deals on each of the main animal pages. Don’t miss out on these offers.

THESE ARE LIMITED QUANTITIES! FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED!

To get more information on the types of deals you can expect click on the links below…

12 Days - Pet - Sneak Preview

12 Days - Equine - Sneak Preview

12 Days - Livestock - Sneak Preview

You won’t believe your eyes!

How do I know which shot to give my dog or puppy?
What do all those letters mean? (DA2PPv, L4 and so on)
What is Lepto and when is it dangerous to vaccinate for it?
What is the difference between a 5 way and a 7 way shot?
What age can I vaccinate for Rabies and how often?

Do any of these questions sound familiar?
Ever try to decipher all the ‘mumbo jumbo’ and ‘vet-speak’?

There seems to be a lot of confusion and some very common misconceptions about puppy shots and dog vaccinations in general…

Here are some links to help clarify and demystify the truth about your dog’s shots.

About dog vaccines: an explanation of the many different types of vaccination shots

D - Distemper
A₂ - Adenovirus 2 (2 types)(includes Hepatitis)
P - Parainfluenza
Pv - Parvovirus (AKA CPv or Canine Parvovirus)
L - Leptospira Bacterin (AKA Lepto, L4 or Leptospirosis)
Cv - Coronavirus

Dog Vaccination Schedule: When to give which Vaccines?

Next Time – Help! My Dog is a Senior Citizen…

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.

To comment or reply, just click where it says “No Comments” below. (If comments have already been made it will read with the number of comments instead of “No Comments”, ex. “3 Comments”.)

by Renee Jones, CPDT

As the seasons start to change from fall to winter people adjust their routines and plan for colder weather. It’s important to take a few minutes to prepare the four legged members of our family for colder weather, too.

Make certain to provide proper shelter. If you can’t keep your dog indoors during winter months, provide an elevated structure with a door to protect pets from wind and weather.

Provide dry, clean bedding materials such as straw or blankets and replace bedding if it becomes damp or wet.

Make sure your dog’s house is large enough for him to stand up and turn around in, but small enough to retain his body heat.

If your dog sleeps indoors provide him with a warm sleeping area away from drafts.

Be careful around bodies of water. Keep pets away from rivers, ponds & lakes as they begin to freeze. Continue to use caution even when the water appears to be completely frozen.

Keep the hair around paw pads trimmed. Less hair will help keep paws free of ice and snow which can quickly ball up between the pads and become very uncomfortable for your pet.

Check the paw pads for small cuts and cracks. If needed, provide your dog with boots when walking in ice & snow, especially if he’s reacted to snow removal products in the past.

Make sure to clean your dog’s paws after walks to remove salt and snow removal chemicals which can be toxic to dogs.

Check your dog’s ears, tail and feet for frostbite. Frostbitten skin may appear red or gray. If you suspect frostbite, wrap your dog’s feet in a blanket or towel to gradually warm them and contact your veterinarian.

Make sure you are providing the proper type and amount of food for your dog. Dogs that are housed outside and those that participate in strenuous outdoor activities may need extra food during colder weather.

Do provide adequate fresh, unfrozen water. You may want to invest in a heated water bowl if your dog lives outside.

Pets will shiver in response to being chilled. You may need to buy a pet sweater for your dog, especially if he is a short-haired breed.

Keep puppies and older dogs indoors except for short periods of time. Young and old dogs are more susceptible to the effects of the cold.

Clean up antifreeze spills immediately. Many dogs like the sweet smell and taste and even very small amounts can be lethal. Consider using an animal friendly anti-freeze!

Don’t keep your dog outside in all weather conditions. If the temperature dips too far below freezing it’s too cold for any dog, even those used to being outside.

Don’t leave pets alone in cars during cold weather. With the engine off a car can act as a refrigerator, holding in the cold.

Check out these related products:

Heated Pet Mats
Snuggle Safe™ Microwave Heating Pad with Cover
Sleep-Right™ Self-Warming Thermal Pet Bed
Outdoor Heated Kitty Pad™

Originally Published 2/5/2007 at Jeffers Online Community Articles section

Next week – Which Shots When?

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved.
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.

To comment or reply, just click where it says “No Comments” below. (If comments have been made it will read with the number of comments instead of “No Comments”, ex. “3 Comments”.)

Doggie Dental Care
by Renee Jones, CPDT

Although dogs rarely get cavities, they are prone to gum disease & excess tartar build-up on the teeth. According to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS), an astounding 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of oral disease by age three. Animals can suffer the same kinds of dental problems as humans, including infection, severe pain and fractured teeth. With the advent of better preventive medicine and better ways to diagnose and treat many diseases we are now seeing more pets whose most severe medical problems are dental problems.

Food particles and bacteria collecting along the gum line in our pets’ mouths form plaque. Routine home care can remove this plaque. If plaque is not removed, minerals in the saliva combine with the plaque and form tartar, which adheres strongly to the teeth. The tarter is irritating to the gums and causes inflammation called gingivitis. It is one of the things that can cause bad breath. At this point it is necessary to remove the plaque with special instruments called dental scalers, and then polish the teeth.

If the tartar is not removed, it builds up under the gums. It separates the gums from the teeth to form pockets and encourages even more bacterial growth. At this point the damage is irreversible and is called periodontal disease. It can be very painful and can lead to loose teeth, abscesses and bone loss or infection. This can cause infection of the heart valves, liver and kidneys. Veterinary treatment with special procedures can slow or stop periodontal disease.

A good dental care program includes regular visits to your veterinarian which should include an oral exam and daily home oral care.

Warning signs of developing dental problems include:

• Bad breath
• Tartar buildup on teeth
• Swollen, receding or bleeding gums
• Fractured or abscessed teeth
• Change in eating habits

To help keep your pets teeth and gums healthy follow these guidelines:

• Feed a dry kibble diet. Dry foods are abrasive and help keep the teeth clean. If you prefer to feed canned food, offer dry biscuits or cookies daily.
• Brush the teeth and gums three times a week using a toothpaste made for dogs. Do not use toothpaste made for humans. Its foaming action is unpleasant to dogs, and dogs cannot spit and rinse after using it.
• Provide your dog with toys and chews designed to remove plaque.
• Schedule annual veterinary visits for cleaning and, if necessary, scaling. A yearly check-up is the best prevention against dental problems.

These are all first-line-of-defense measures that you can take to ensure your pet will have a healthy dental life. Avoid feeding chicken bones and long bones that splinter.

Keeping your pets’ teeth clean & their gums healthy is important for more than just pleasant breath. Many veterinarians feel that oral disease is the number one health problem diagnosed in dogs. Most dogs should receive professional dental care by age two to three years. The frequency of dental examinations, scaling and polishing depends on how quickly calculus forms on the dogs teeth.

Originally Published 2/5/2007 at Jeffers Online Community Articles section

Next week – Cold Weather Tips for Dog Owners

As always, information given here is meant to be helpful and/or educational. It is, in no way, intended to supersede, challenge or supplant the diagnosis, treatment or advice of a licensed veterinarian.

Become involved
If you like JeffersPetBlog.com, please comment and tell us and tell all your friends. If you have questions, comments or corrections about a subject we cover, use the comments section below. If you would like to see a particular subject covered, leave a comment.

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